by Bennett Hennessey

A true ecotourism effort, the Red-fronted Macaw lodge helps protected a threatened Bolivia macaw, while all proceeds go to the local communities and the protection of the Red-fronted Macaw reserve. At the end of 2007, the last three groups to visit the Red-fronted Macaw lodge summarised their experience as "fantastic". The lodge is situated across the river from a massive hard rock breeding cliff which serves as the most important breeding area for the Red-fronted Macaw (bird photos by Mileniusz Spanowicz), and now 124 acre (50 ha) natural reserve protected by Asociacion Armonia (BirdLife Bolivia). For much of the breeding period the area is full of activity with not only Red-fronted Macaws, but also Mitred Parakeets, Yellow-chevroned Parakeets, Blue-fronted Parrots, and Cliff Parakeets flying back and forth from the cliff face. There area is frequently visited by Andewan Condors and Peregrine Falcons, including a leucistic morph (more pale than the average bird) in 2007. One hundred and thirty birds have been found in the area (see Red-fronted Macaw birding guide below).

Photo Juan Carlos Atienza

The Lodge is based facing a large cliff where the Red-fronted Macaw breeds with the Bolivian Cliff Parakeet (a different form of the Monk Parakeet), Mitred Parakeet, and Bolivia Blackbirds (endemic). This desert habitat holds a regional specific bird community, with such distinctive species as the White-eared Puffbird, Greater Wagtail Tyrant, White-tailed Plantcutter, Grey-crested Finch, Spot-fronted Woodpecker, Apolomado Falcon, Ultramarine Grosbeak, and Cliff Flycatcher. During the Red-fronted Macaw breeding season (November- to early May) the macaws are constantly present, seen flying in pairs, families, and groups. Outside of the breeding season the Red-fronted Macaw is less common, but groups are seen daily often as the birds forage near the river and at dusk group for a communal roost.

As in most desert environments, the best birdwatching is done close to the river. A nice long morning hike is to leave the lodge walking down towards the river. Follow the beach down river to the large footbridge, cross and travel up river along a trail which travels below the cliffs and eventually weaves up the cliff edge to the main road. You can birdwatch along the road back to the town of Perrereta and take the footbridge back to the lodge. The road usually has almost no traffic. The trail travels into two valleys with more Red-fronted Macaw nests. Go softly as though the macaws are usually up in the cliffs, at any time they can foraging in the trees and come to the river for a drink.

Another possibility is to walk down to the river from the lodge, and birdwatch upriver follow the trail on the edge of the aqueduct. This trail will take you to a along a cliff edge but to open up again into another forested area. Another taller forest that could be interesting exists down river on the San Carlos side passed the footbridge. Also you can be guided to ancient Inca ruins an hours hike up the slope from the lodge.

Logistics: You must have a reservation tovisit the lodge.

Asociacion Armonia in its attempt to create sustainable conservation for the Red-fronted Macaw has supported the communities of Amaya, Perrereta, and San Carlos in their creation of the Red-fronted Macaw ecolodge, financially supported by Ben Olewine, the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland Conservation Fund, and CEPA- Conservation des Espèces et des Populations Animales. The lodge can receive up to eight guests with running water, electricity, and hot showers. By 2009 the lodge will be capable of receiving groups of 14 people.

Administration of the lodge is developing with the local community. Presently you need to make a reservation to visit the lodge, which you can do through Bird Bolivia. Bird Bolivia includes the Red-fronted Macaw lodge in the Bolivia's Diversity tour and Eight Day Santa Cruz tour.

As it is called, the old road from Santa Cruz to Cochabamba is partially paved, traveling up the Andes to Samaipata and onward to Comarapa. In a vehicle you want to travel this road to the town ofSamaipata- from Santa Cruz to Samaipata is about 3.5 hours drive. Land Hausoffers clean rooms, with a restaurant and a nice salad bar. We also recommend Latin Café on themain paved street. In Samaipata you can check theInca ruins and Samaipata Yungas. From Samapaita you need to drive further along the paved road for 87 km, to the road block La Palizada. From here you are taking the dirt road to Sucre. This is a rough road with many tight turns which requires a few steep high altitude climbs- so make sure your vehicle is ingood knick. One hour in, or 23 km you will come to the last towncalledSaipina.

This is your last chance for fuel (a bit overpriced), colddrinks,hardware and luxurious supplies. Coming intoSaipina, at the roundabout on the corner of the plaza, turn left and in a few meters you will pass over a bridge. From Saipina you travel another 42 km (65 km on dirt road) to the town of Perrereta. There is a government sign that has the name on it, but also Perrereta is distinct that the road comes to a tight curve right in the middle of the town (really just 20 houses along the road). We suggest asking for Don Martin for a place to park your vehicle. There is a 2 km walk to the lodge. You need to walk down to the river, take the footbridge across, and follow a farming field path to the main town of San Carlos and the far left to the lodge. Your drive from Santa Cruz to Perrereta could take 7 to 8 hours depending on how you go up hill and take tight turns.

Now it is possible to arrive without a vehicle, but a bit tricky. We have been told there is a bus that travels from Santa Cruz to Perrereta on Tuesdays and Fridays, and another from Perrereta to Santa Cruz on Thursday and Sunday. There is also a daily micro bus to Saipina- where you would have to contract a taxi to Perrereta. Another option would be the daily many buses that travel to Sucre from Santa Cruz, but they pass around 3 am in Perrereta. I am sure you would be able to wave one down, at around the same time to return- but I would suggest trying to reserve a prepaid seat- though most likely that is too complicated for any of these bus companies.

Another option is to take a tour of the general area with Bird Bolivia. To make the trip more enjoyable, we suggest birding your way up to Samaipata, spending a few nights as Los Volcanes, a night in Land Haus (cheap) or Campeche lodge (middle but very nice), and then birding and enjoying the drive to Red-fronted Macaw lodge. The trip is very scenic. The return trip is mostly down hill and can be done in one swoop without much problem.